Triathlon Speed: Part II

In the book, "Faster: Demystifying the Science of Triathlon Speed", the author uses scientific research from studies done around the world to help athletes go faster in triathlons without taking out a second mortgage.

Now we concentrate on "The Bike".

Of course you can spend untold fortunes buying a light, fast bike (a bike is not fast though, the rider makes it fast –bikes just sit there without someone pedaling).  So – work on your engine, this only costs time.
Also, and most important, work on being aero throughout the race, down on the bars.

Not satisfied? Then spend a little money by getting an aero helmet, a relatively cheap method to decrease drag. Helmets with shorter tails and steeper taper angles are the best. (p92). Secondly, research tires, there is a significant difference on rolling resistance between clincher tires. It’s really where you can get the most bang for your dollar (p.106). The best tire can save you about 60 seconds over a 25 mile race, doing an IM – that’s 4:30 saved just by having the right tire. Remember, the time saved is also energy conserved for the run. Tire pressure is also important, aim for 110psi, any higher and the ride will get bumpy and diminishing returns in rolling resistance.

Disc wheels, depending on wind direction, can be more aerodynamic, but how much money do you want to spend? This is about spending the least to get the most, not looking cool with the shiniest equipment.  

Drafting on the bike, in most triathlons, is illegal, it does give a huge advantage (think Peloton at Tour de France), so forget that technique. The author does strongly suggest getting a Power Meter for your bike, the most effective method of training and measuring your effort during a race. Power Meter’s cost a few hundred though, so it may be out of reach for some people.